Showing posts with label folklore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label folklore. Show all posts

Thursday, 27 September 2018

Traditional Costume


This is a gorgeous example of rare Museum quality quilted Kaftan jacket.
This is a 19th century from the Turkish Ottoman Empire an Ottoman men's kaftan - or Hil'at as it was called in old Turkish.


The kaftan was the top layer of the outfit and served mainly to show the status, function and wealth of its wearer. The most expensive fabrics and also furs were used for kaftans.



This one is entirely hand worked in the matelassee technique, a form of corded quilting that must have taken weeks to complete.
It is most probably made in Bursa, a city with a great textile history situated in the Silk Road.


This unique and rare garment is in great state considering its age. There are some stains that did not go away with dry cleaning, but it is clean and has no smell, tears or mold

The condition and workmanship of the hand quilted piece is truly exquisite. 



It has welted slits at the sides where from the pants pockets could be reached without opening the garment.


Can you imagine a H&M jacket for sale after a 130 years? Neither can I, clothes were so much more worth than they are now.
This Kaftan is available in our shop.

Tuesday, 1 May 2018

Traditional Costume


We have put this amazing Traditional costume for sale in our home decor shop, and I investigated a bit about the tradition and finally found some interesting history about them.

In Ottoman tradition young girls generally dressed plainly, it being considered improper for them to wear showy clothing made of fabric with silver or gold thread, sequins or embroidery until they were married. The wedding dress was therefore the first richly ornamented attire they wore. It was distinguished from the costume of other women at the ceremony by a bridal headdress, veil and other accessories. Ottoman wedding dresses made of rich fabrics in the fashionable style of the time were in bright colors like red, purple, blue or pink, while red was the traditional color for the daughters and sisters of the sultans.


They were worn with a red bridal veil. From the 1870s onwards, under western influence, wedding dresses of pastel colors became fashionable, but the first white wedding dress was not worn until 1898, when Naime Sultan, the daughter of Sultan Abdülhamid II, married Kemalettin Pasa. This fashion, which began at the palace, gradually spread throughout Turkish society, until eventually it became hard to find any bride not dressed in white.

Wedding dresses and woman’s clothing in general diverged widely between regions with colors, fabrics, embroidery and style varying according to the customs of each sector of society. The number of days a wedding celebration lasted depended on the social status of the family. Among the upper classes brides wore a different dress for each day of the celebrations, which consisted principally of the henna night, the nuptial day, and the day following the wedding. The dress worn on the latter occasion was known as paçalik.


The main items of a woman’s attire were the baggy trousers or salvar, jacket, blouse, a robe called entari and kaftan. An entari worn over shalvar is the most ancient form of Turkish woman’s dress. Entaris of many different styles were worn up until the mid-19th century, with skirts of different lengths, sometimes divided by slits to the waist into two or more sections, and having necklines of various shapes. From the early 19th century on wards the styles called üç etek and dört etek, with the skirts divided into three and four sections respectively were the height of fashion. The üç etek had slits at the sides forming three skirt panels reaching to the ground, was open down the front, and fastened by several buttons at the waist. It was worn in the cities until around 1875 and in rural areas until the 20th century.


Following Sultan Abdülaziz's visit to Europe in 1867, young women gradually stopped wearing salvar and the üç etek. Instead, under western influence dresses with two-paneled skirts became popular. These were cut in various styles, plainer for daily wear and heavily embroidered when used as wedding dresses or intended for special occasions. The latter were almost always made of velvet, with long skirts, shaped bodices and round necks. They were open as far as the waist at the front, and worn over a blouse of helâlis, a cloth with a silk warp and linen or wool weft. The head was covered with a scarf of muslin or crepe, and a silver belt was worn around the waist.


At the beginning of the 19th century, dresses known as bindalli made usually of purple or dark red velvet, and embroidered with floral motifs in couched and padded gold work known as dival, were favored as wedding dresses and for other ceremonial occasions. In rural areas women wore salvars and boleros made of similar fabric and similarly embroidered. From the reign of Abdülhamid II (1876-1909), the bindalli began to be superseded in cities by long skirts and matching jackets influenced by western fashions, and made of silk fabrics like satin, taffeta and brocade. The earliest examples of wedding outfits in this style were made of satin with bindalli embroidery, and had long trains and shaped jacket.


These were succeeded by wedding dresses made of taffeta or silk woven with silver thread, with long skirts cut on the cross, tight boned and corseted bodices, and capes. These were worn with scarves of crepe edged with needle lace. In winter knee-length fur-lined velvet coats tailored to fit the waist, and matching the color and embroidery of the dress beneath were worn. Shoes and bags were made of fabric or leather, again in matching colors and designs. Western fashions also influenced footwear during this period.

Our beautiful set is available at StarHomeStudio.
Information found at Algeria.

Tuesday, 21 October 2014

Newly Listed: Fairy tale Dress


Fairy tale Dress Folklore Bohemian Vintage Embroidery wool by StarsWear
Four Red Lilies by hbphotographs
Engineer Lake, Alaska, Sunset fine art print by Simplynaturalphotos
Original painting  nutmeg mannikins hovel together under the skies by sallygotsthe

Sunday, 6 April 2014

Newly Listed: Cobalt Blue Wool Embroidered Vintage Coat


Cobalt Blue Wool Vintage Coat Jacket Embellished with Embroidery by StarsWear
Blue Wall Art - Photography - Home Decor - Travel - Penang, Malaysia by TBOphotography
Indian Girl watercolor painting print, Woman, Blue, Imperial blue, Cobalt, by SlaviART
Red Berries Glowing in the Moonlight Surreal Midnight Garden Botanical Photography by EclecticForest

Thursday, 3 January 2013

A la Turka

 
While Turkey is a country that produces its own cotton,and has a large textile industry for the export, it is really hard to find cotton fabrics. Only a few traditional fabrics, like these lovely and colorful flannels are made from cotton.
 
This kind of fabric was first woven in the Haliç neighbourhood in Istanbul in the 1800's. It is called 'pazen' or 'divitin', from the french 'duvet', indicating that it is soft to the touch like a feather.
 
Used mostly for traditional long skirts and şalvars, pazen was never a high fashion product but more used in the country side.



For a very long time, pazen was only used in rural areas with traditional dress, till 2002, when the beautiful Azra Akin became Miss World wearing a pazen dress designed by the couturier Cemil Ipekci. The dress was also choosen best dress in the world competition, and pazen became well known outside Turkey.



Still when we go to fabric shops people often are suprised when we especially ask for pazen, instead of shiny satens and polyester.

We have started a new collection of bags using this traditional fabric and oya, the gorgeous hand made lace used to edge the scarves of the rural women.





This is not the first time that we are using traditional Turkish materials, we blogged about our oya collection several years ago.

Thursday, 25 October 2012

Our Creative Space...


We love to incorporate old embroideries in our bags. The size and shape of the embroidery determines the size and shape of the bag. Usually it is pretty straitforward, but this hmong embroidery piece was a bit more difficult. A lot of craft paper later I had made a pattern to incorporate and enhance the embroidery.


We decided to use leather for this bag. Here the hide gets an adhesive backing.



The lining is a very pretty Mary Engelbreit cotton.


It is coming along nicely, not sure about the strap, though.


Isn't it nice? From the breast plate of a traditional costume to a bag.
In the picture below you can see how the costumes were worn.


See more creative spaces at Our Creative Spaces.